Matthew Williamson A/W13
Matthew Williamson has cheerfully moved away from the notorious black, bland and morose color collections often displayed for the autumn/winter season by a flock of designers. It seems that Williamson wants to carry on the joyful colors of spring and summer well into the following season.
Flamboyant evening wear and jewel prints dominate the collection, there is an excess of color and diversity in his latest designs, with not even a hint of monochrome.
Inspired by the Northern Lights and toxic colors, Williamson presented everything from bridal wear to a capsule cruise collection. The inbetween is where we will focus, his autumn/winter collection designed in rainbow colors, despite their bright and airy aesthetic, has a particularly autumnal feel. The intense color is at the same time grown-up and sophisticated. The clothes stand by themselves and make a real substantial statement.
As we floated about the showroom with buyers intently surveying the collection it was notable that Williamson had obtained a transnational market, this season he appeals to every woman, every piece is immediately states “wearable,” with interchangeable separates and striking yet practical panel coats. Particular stand out pieces were the pastel blue vintage-esque dress with modern sequinned embellishment, the dreamy flowing floor length evening dresses and the excellently cut pale grey coat suit.
Silhouettes seemed to be a key element of Williamson’s overhaul, while colors and patterns varied enormously. The shapes were always flattering and well thought out in a rather laid-back style, veering away from the billowing chiffon and tight fitting items seen previously.
This is a new side to Williamson and as the brand celebrates its 15th birthday maybe we are beginning to see a more grown up side to the designer, while at the same time managing excellently to inject fun and innovation into his garments staying wonderfully true to his brand.
by Jessica Saxby