Men’s Fashion Week Wrap up, Paris
Some of us may have got the party started at the very beginning of Fashion Week, partying with male model Willy Cartier at Le Titty Twister, or in bed with coffee and the Fashion Week program finalising invitations preparing for the socially charged messages and theatrics, industry feuds and rivalry of this season’s Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, which seemed to have it all.
AW 2013-14 opening day had the Fashion Press mesmorised with deep somber colors and sounds from Alibellus+ vampire-esque creatures to the social challenges and struggles men have to conform with the traditions of the male wardrobe in Yohan Serfaty’s Y Project Collection.
Whether hopping the shuttle bus, taxi or getting squashed in the underground from show to show, the schedule left us uncertain of what designers may show in the next scheduled défilé…
Nearer the end of the week the Salles des Fetes at the Mairie 4eme, male models were streaked with red hair with a pain-staking look in their eyes down the runway in very strong constrasting outfits from leather figure hugging silhouettes or over-sized maxi coats.
Sunday morning, if you were not hung over from the afterparties of the night before and missed London Fashion Week, Tim Blanks hosted a brunch in the heart of the Marais at the London Showrooms where some of the latest offerings of London coolness and British tailoring were displayed.
Astrid Andersen, Aitor Throup, new on the scene Bobby Abley and Lee Roach, were just some of the highlights this season.
Astrid Andersen’s body-builder film inspired collection. With the use of bold logos, representing the strength and community of her Body Builder Men, Andersen’s collection, just like every season was playful, colourful, cool and determined.
The former Royal College of Art storyteller, Aitor Throp continued his journey from his initial collection which set Fashion Insiders and their world on fire through the suspension of a militant collection featuring treated denim jeans, and sea island cotton shirts, gas masks, skulls, a saxophone-shaped rucksake and a loan horse rider.
This well structure and well thought out collection paid hommage to July 7th terrorist attack in the UK, in which a young man was shot dead for baring a rucksake as well as hooliganism and misconceptions.
From outerspace, a new name graced Le Loft this season, Bobby Abley’s Wishery collection was sporty, and fun with his trademark teddy bear cartoon character being at the center of the print designs. Hues of grey and primary colors in leather, wools, this first collection reminds us of the cool and street styles of Jeremy Scott, who he has worked for, already, has stars such as M.I.A and Lady Gaga crazy about him, which should not come as a surprise.
From spaceships to science labs, Lee Roach’s slim, minimal and defined work relying purely on the cut, executed sharply with zero lining of any extra effects. This reduced collection features navy, the purest whites and new additions of cashmere jumpers.
Paris, London and now Lebanon where Couturier Georges Hobeika models flow down the runway with camera lights beaming off them, and leaving his guests at illustrious Le Meurice hotel, where the show was held, in complete ore. He gracefully promotes peace through elegant, fair and dream like pieces in peach and blue crepe georgette and organza gowns with sequins and pearls.
Fashion Week was a story of challenging the ideals of male strength, worldly travels and feminine beauty. We can only hope that these challenges will leave men outside of tne Fashion Sphere free enough to select and think more about the history and storytelling weaved and sown into the fibres of their future liberated and updated wardrobes.
by Akosua Osei
Gloobbi Contributor based in Paris