Top 10 Designers for 2013
We put together a list of the Top 10 most desirable, must watch designers for 2013. As we all know, “September is the January of fashion,” so this list will help you keep an eye out for the designers we believe will have the greatest impact in the industry at the start of the fashion year.
Click on the link HERE for a photo slideshow of our Top 10 pick, or just read the list below:
10. Kit Neale: Menswear
New London based designer Kit Neale has stood out strongly in his recent collections, especially his AW13 collection. He is largely inspired by his favorite designers; Michael Clarke, Ray Petri and Ernő Goldfinger. Neale has also been influenced by the role of British pubs in society, as a vibrant “place where all types congregate.” This, combined with the vivid colors in Clarke’s film “Hail The New Puritan,” led Neale to create mesmerizing, almost hypnotic prints. Painted puffer jackets, jumpsuits and shirts contrast, yet do not clash, with one another. Neale is the epitome of creativity explored to the extreme. Many in the fashion industry have called him a real one-of-a-kind designer.
9. Martine Rose: Menswear
Men by women: Martine Rose, an emerging and prominent menswear designer, recently finished her third season, exhibiting her AW13 collection. There was a clear influence of ‘ghetto royalty’ and general urban life, through low-hanging bottoms, layered denim, fierce leather, and puffy parkas. Additionally, pub bar towels of brands such as Stella Artois and Heineken were patched together making outwear, bottoms, and adding slight details to beaten-up denim. After spending time in Jamaica, Rose became inspired by Jamaican urban life and the Rasta community, a muse of which can be seen persistently throughout her collections. This gives her collections a fresh, contemporary and modern look.
8. TOME: Womenswear
TOME is a wonderfully understated collection created by an Australian duo. They are only in their fourth season, but fashionistas everywhere have already recognized their shiny bags of talent. The team is inspired by female artists such as Pina Bausch, Louise Bourgeois and Vanessa Beecroft. The Australian duo have said their design process is “very organic,” they follow their creative instincts as much as possible. Pure simplicity, fluid satins and nude, almost bare colors evokes grace, elegance and a hint of bohemia.
7. Holly Fulton: Womenswear
Emerging womenswear designer Holly Fulton is into her third year doing what she does best. After winning the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award for Accessories in 2009, Fulton’s collections began gaining recognition and publicity. Her SS13 line is influenced by sun kissed days in Los Angeles, whereas her recently shown AW13 line is inspired by racy evenings in the Marais. Fulton said, “My life and work is constantly influenced by culture.” Her line is strikingly contemporary, with a strong emphasis on color and prints. Vast floral prints contrast with stripes, checks and mosaics. Additionally, a slight hint of 1950s Americana is obviously prominent throughout her collection, such as candy-pink prom dresses. Distinct, dissimilar textures give her collection a modern twist from heavy plastics, to soft silks and shiny leathers.
6. Peter Pilotto: Womenswear
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’s collection is a perfect mix between extravagance and elegance. Inspired by the Palazzos of Florence, De Vos and Pilotto unite fashion of the past and present to create ultimate sophistication. De Vos and Pilotto described their ideal client as, “Beyond pure classification of age or style, just like the clothes themselves.” Shortlisted for the Vogue Fashion Fund in 2012, Peter Pilotto exhibits exclusive talent, and is predicted to be highly successful this year.
5. Jacquemus: Womenswear
Simon Porte Jacquemus is the man behind the emerging new brand Jacquemus. Named, and almost completely based on his late mother, the 22 year old explores youthful simplicity in his womenswear line. Self trained, Porte has no qualms in borrowing from the boys, his collection reflects slight masculinity yet consistency. Porte based many of his garments on female uniforms, which can be seen in his minimalism-chic and small sense of repetition. Jacquemus is fresh and effortless. Porte described his mother and inspiration as, “Very simple, with no make-up, flowing hair. That is the starting point [to the brand.]” His models have flowing, untamed hair, and fresh, unmade-up faces – something that is often lost in the world of fashion. This Parisian line is created entirely in France.
4. Simone Rocha: Womenswear
Simone Rocha, daughter of esteemed designer John Rocha, is into her fourth year as a womenswear designer. Her SS13 collection, which she proudly exhibited in September 2012, was described as “Modern and strong, yet romantic.” Sweet and girly, her line-sheet stated the inspiration, “series of photographs of teenagers kissing by Ed Templeton … it is a reflection on youth, in all its purity and unruliness.” This muse is reflected strongly in prim, A-line dresses, perfectly crisp white shirts, an abundance of cream crochet and lace, and baby-doll swing coats. A handful of neon pieces and a mixture of textures gave her collection a modern twist. Her signature piece thus far is her Perspex heel brogues, daintily worn by many fashionistas worldwide. With Alexa Chung as a faithful follower, Rocha is predicted to be a strong emerging candidate in the fashion world during 2013.
3. Mugler: Menswear
After becoming the new Creative Director of Mugler in 2010, Nicola Formichetti and menswear designer Romain Kremer are taking Mugler several steps further into the avant-garde aspect of menswear design. The recent runway show of menswear F/W 13-14 in Paris exhibited a strong military influence, with Velcro fastened bullet proof vests, martial insignias, and tight, straight-cut, almost battle-ready military outwear. Asian pop culture clearly stimulated this line, from the techno music playing during the show, to the full neon body suits and shimmering electric-blue suits. Formichetti described the new line as “West meets East,” yet another reason to keep an eye on this advancing, futuristic brand for 2013.
2. Kenzo – Humberto Leon and Carol Lim: Menswear
Leon and Lim founded New York’s excessively hip Opening Ceremony in 2002, a multifunctional retail space, gallery and showroom environment. The concept is to bring together both emerging and recognized talent. It is now worldwide, with centers in Germany, Brazil and the UK. Kenzo was founded in 1970, and is known for its creative energy in both womenswear and menswear. Leon and Lim became the new creative directors in July 2011. They showed their menswear FW13 collection at Pitti Uomo, Florence, in the beginning of January. Inspired by Gods and Aviators, Kenzo exhibited an emphasis on sportiness and tailoring, with an excess of cloud-print and chunky sky blue fleeces. This, combined with a range of colors and textures, foreshadows the title of the menswear collection ‘Jungle of the Sky.’
1. Balenciaga and Alexander Wang: Womenswear
We are expecting great things from French fashion house Balenciaga in 2013. World renowned designer Alexander Wang became the Creative Director for Balenciaga in early December 2012, replacing Nicolas Ghesquière’s fifteen year reign. His debut for the prestigious brand will begin during Paris women’s fashion week next month. “I am deeply honoured to embark on this new role for a brand, and house, that I have such great admiration and respect for,” said Wang. He will be accountable for Balenciaga’s womenswear, menswear and accessory lines. Wang is known for his edgy, androgynous womenswear designs and excellent tailoring skills. Balenciaga, founded in 1918, is known for structured femininity, The Little Black Dress, and futuristic takes on classic pieces. The combination of the two is predicted to be ground breaking in the fashion world for 2013, watch this space.
by Eliza Horton
Gloobbi Fashion Contributor based in Paris